WEEK SIX

17^th November

Mot Potts to Mesapotenia (29kms)

We woke to a beautiful clear day and awesome views.   We headed on down to Mt Potts River and then on down and picked our way across Rangitata River.  There was lots of gravel and areas of grass and scrub.  We were most relieved to find lots of little shallow braids.   Once across we went across lots of matagouri and arrived at Mesopotenia.  There was lots of boulders and gravel, so hard going for the horses so good it was a short day.  We stayed in the Rowan home, which was the original homestead, and put our gear in a beautiful old stable.

It was beautiful scenery all day, and the mountains with a touch of snow looked awesome.

We should’ve been celebrating with a wine for safely crossing 3 big rivers, but thinking of the pack horse, we just had a coffee sachet each.

18^th November

Mesapotenia to Royal Hut   29.9km

We rode through lots of deer, and passed a big forestry block and sections of beech forest. When we looked back our view was beautiful right back to Mt Potts and the Rangatiki river. 

 We also saw avalanche damage to deer fences done in the winter, which pulled huge posts right out of the ground close to stone hut. 

 We rounded a corner we could see Felt Hut and a huge climb up to Bullock Bow saddle.  When we got to the top there was a huge snow/ice shelf.  We saw a broken cannon bone of an old skeleton poking up, which we commented on, but didn’t want to dwell on.

  We then had to make our way round the snow on a steep scree slope and up to the top.  Once down the other side it was a narrow track, along way down, passed a lovely tarn,  to Royal Hut.  Princes Ann and Prince Charles had visited many years earlier. 

Royal Hut to Mt Gerald Station

19^th November  23.4kms

Next morning we woke to a nice day.  We knew this day was going to be our most challenging, and it certainly was.  We ended up scouting on foot, both sides of the Te Araoha trail creek for the safest way for the horses, leaving them standing while we did this.  

We slowly made our way up before leaving Bush Stream and climbed over a tussocky ridge, and saw the most awesome tarn with patches of snow and beautiful reflections.  We took lots of photos.  

We carried on passed the tarn up to the top of Stag Saddle, where our cellphones went mad, and stopped and enjoyed a cuppa soup, feeling pretty good.  Little did we know how difficult was the decent, due to snow and rock boulders.  We picked our way slowly down the mountain, but there was lots of snow drifts which we either siddled round via boulders, or took them through.  

As we got lower there was also lots of bogs.  We were delighted to cross over a  ridge to see Mt Gerald station, where we enjoyed a lovely hot shower, too tired for tea.  Very relieved.

20^th November  32.6km 

Mt Gerald to Tekapo

The heavy rain and wind that was predicted arrived, and we were pleased we heeded the weather.  We were happy to ride in this weather knowing we were on a flat road.  The rain cleared as we got close to Tekapo, and we looked back to see fresh snow had fallen where we’d been the previous day.

Tekapo is the half way point down the South Island.

As we neared Tekapo, we were looking for somewhere to camp and thought we’d found a camping ground, but turned out to be a motor home park, and a lady camping there was most helpful.  

We decided to ride into Tekapo as we were in desparate need of a coffee.  The town folk were most helpful in finding grazing for our tired horses, and also we were given hard feed, as well as anything else we needed.   

This trip has been a revelation to us of the kindness and generosity of people as well as the stunning scenery we have been so lucky to have been able to ride through.

The horses had three well earned days off.

While in Tekapo, we found out the story behind the bones in the photo above. They belonged to a horse called Toby who had died during during a crossing of the bullock bow way back on the day of the storm that caused the Waihine disaster. This caused the rider to backtrack thus saving his life!

21^st

Rest Day

22^nd

Rest Day

WEEK FIVE

11^th Novermber

Castle Hill Village to Mt Barker

It was raining in the morning as we left and it rained most of the day.  We rode along the Arthurs Pass highway until we came to Lake Lyndon and then followed

 Lyndon road until the base of Mt Barker where we stopped for the night. Just before we got there we could see Lake Coleridge and it looked lovely.

We set up our tents and had a quick tea and then into our tents for the night as the rain had really set in again.

12 November

Mt Barker to GlenRock Station( 30.7 km)

We packed up our wet and soggy tents and carried on towards Lake Coleridge and took the power station road which went in through trees and came out at the Lake Coleridge power station.   This power station was interesting and reminded us of Monawai power station but on a larger scale.  

We had talked to a few people about crossing the Rakaia River and we crossed the tail race bridge and then out on the riverbed.  We crossed a few narrow braids and then a lot of scrub before coming to the main braids of the river.  We looked at these very closely and went up and down the river to decide where to cross and then carefully crossed the river, one braid at a time.  This was very swift and we made it safely to the other side.  Once we were over we carried on along the Double Hill Run Road and on to Glenrock Station where we stayed in a lovely cottage and the horses had a great paddock full of grass.

13thNovermber

Glenrock Station to Glenfallock Station (33.5km)

We reluctantly left our lovely cottage at Glenrock and headed on up, and we had lunch beside a stream, using a rock for a table and newspaper for table cloth and gourmet wraps.  

Cracka decided to have a play splashing in the stream.  We were going to stay at Charlies hut, but it was four kms away so we stayed amongst matagouri which sheltered us from the very strong winds. 

14^th November

Valley Stream to DOC Hakatere   34.5 kms

It was very windy overnight and all day, and we continued on down towards Lake Heron and could see Sugar Loaf loaming.  Lake Heron was very choppy. 

Some very kind people stopped to take photos, and offered us fresh bananas which were delicious.  We were going to stay at Clent Hills backpackers, but they weren’t far enough along the road so we carried on passed the Maori Lakes and camped on DOC land out of the wind not far along.

15th November

DOC Camping area to Mt Potts Station (25kms)

We woke to misty rain which turned into steady rain for most of the day.

We rode passed Camp Lake, and Lake Clearwater and there was lots of traffic on the road due to everyone leaving at the end of the weekend.

When we arrived at Mt Potts there was a lovely welcoming note on the door, and lovely room with a bath which was greatly appreciated.  The scenery was awesome and it was where Erodous from Lord of the Rings was filmed. 

16^th November

Then rest day for the horses.

WEEK FOUR

2^nd November

Lake Taylor to Deep Creek Hut (15.8km)

Natalie and her horse Breeze have joined us for a week and we all headed off up the track over to Eskhead Sation. There was a locked gate part way up the hill and we had to go up though some matagouri bushes to get round this.  Chief was packhorse today and a bit taller and had to push his way thought the bushes.  

We went up and over this saddle and down towards the South branch of the Hurunui River and then crossed this and headed out the other side to pick up the track to Deep Creek hut.  This is a great hut with lots of character. We got up early the next morning prepared to head out, but the weather was changing quickly and we could see some dark clouds coming in to the South so we stayed the day and were really pleased we did and it was really wet and windy and no visibility for climbing hills.

3^rd November

Day off due to bad weather

4^rd November

Deep Creek Hut to Mt White (25.3km

We had looked for the track the day before and thought we had found it and headed off but it was the wrong track so we talked to a farm worker who told us the right track. The weather was clearing and we set off down into Deep creek and up the other side and then into a steep climb up Riding Spur and then on up and over the Dampier Range.  

This was very narrow with steep drop offs on both sides and we then sidled round the side of the mountain and eventually came out on the tops where there was fresh snow as it was still snowing a little. We dropped down after a small tarn and followed Anderson Spur to the bottom and then continued on a while until we camped for the night close to a creek.  It was a cold and windy day and we were very happy for the shelter provided from the Matagouri bushes. 

5^th November

Mt White (31.5km)

We rode along a 4wd track, it was a relief to be on a track after the previous day.  Following the Esk River we rode passed Surveyors Knob, and rode through Nigger Stream, before arriving at Nigger Huts where we had a lovely relaxing lunch break. 

This was a day of constantly changing scenery and huge mountains to watch as we rode through.  There were pockets of beech bush along the track, and we rode above the first of the Sugar Loaf’s, where we camped for the night amongst matagouri bushes.

At Mt White we were intrigued at the signs, ie “New Seal”, and “Railway Crossing”, and “Car Parking”, way out in the back country.

6^th November

Mt White to Flock Hill Station (29.7km)

We rode into the station and they were shearing After a quick chat we carried on the down through the flats towards the Esk River and the Waimakariri  River, this first of our big river crossings.  

We looked at this very carefully before deciding where to cross and we picked out our lines on the braids and then I went first with Chief and Maddy and when I was across Delwyne and Natalie crossed in the same place.  This all went well and we were very relieved.    Then we were on Flock Hill and on a steep track which took us up and onto the flats.  We passed Blackwater Lake which was really pretty and on towards the Trans Alpine Railway line crossing and then on to Flock Hill were we stayed in the back packers.  The chef there was delightful and cooked us a lovely meal for just the three of us, it was so nice to have real food again and a real coffee.  A great way to finished for Natalie as she was leaving the next day.

7^th November

Flock Hill Station to Castle Hill Village (13.3km)

This was a day for the roads again and I was up early to set off as it was very busy as this was a Saturday.  As I was riding along a bus (West Coast Shuttle) stopped and the driver offered me a cup of coffee,

 I was so surprised and delighted and he made me a coffee and we all had a chat and some photos and then carried on.  I arrived at Castle hill Village and Delwyne who had floated Cracka this section (with Natalie as she was leaving) had found us a lovely house to stay in for a few days and we were able to keep our horses on the roughs in the Golf Course!!! 

 This was a delightful place to stop and rest and we stayed four nights and the horses had a great rest.

WEEK THREE

25th October

Rest day for the horses and I reshod Maddys front shoes and her hind shoes will last a few more days.

26th October

Hamner Springs to Lochiel Station (18.2km)

The horses and I left Hamner Springs and headed into town for a coffee and cooked breakfast at the Power House Café. 

We then continued on and headed South.  It was a lovely warm day and the roadsides were nice a wide to start with and then they narrowed up.  For a bridge and a narrow a steep hill come onto an old one lane bridge which crosses the Hope River.  There was lots of traffic on the roads as this was Labour Day and everyone was heading home from the long weekend.  We turned off the Hammer Spring to Christchurch road and headed on along the Lewis pass road.  This was very busy as well but we had not gone far when a farmer stopped and invited us to ride along on the terraces on Lochiel Station so we gratefully did this and the views for the river were awesome. I stopped and set up my tent in a paddock and spend the afternoon marking assignments as I was about to run of cell phone coverage once we went round the corner.

  

27^th October

Lochiel Station to Engineers Camp (36.9km) 

It was very windy overnight and then it started to rain as I saddled up the horses. We headed off down passed the sheep yards and started in the paddocks for another two km before heading out on the road.  This was the Lewis Pass road and it was very busy with lots of fast trucks and cars.   This was a long day on the road and it was raining most of the time but I could not put my hood on my coat on as I needed to hear the trucks coming up behind up.  I am impressed with how good the horses are with the trucks especially as when they go passed the horses get sprayed with water for the wet road. 

Just before I arrived at Engineers camp, Delwyne and Bob came past and then by the time we arrived they had found the Drovers paddock and had the gate open and waiting for us to arrive. It started to rain again and I put my tent up in the rain and Delwyne drove me up to Boyle Village for a hot shower and to charge my laptop batteries.  Delwyne and her horse Cracker are joining us on our journey south.

  

28th October

Engineers Camp to Hope Kiwi Lodge (26.1km)

It rained all night and we got up to a wet day and sorted out Delwynes gear in the rain.  We were not in a hurry to leave as I was hoping the rain would clear.  Maddys back shoes finally had become slippers and the nails had worn through so I shod her hind feet. 

She was grumpy because of the sand-flies.  We drove up and checked out the Boyle River to cross it just above Engineers camp.  We then rode up the Lewis pass a bit and crossed the Boyle River and found the DOC track and followed this for a while and then instead of orange track marker we found green track markers as well and these had horse written on them.  So we followed this and came on a newly formed track which must have been put in especially for horse access.  We followed this until we came to the Hope River and then followed the river for a while and then back on the track. 

There were some tricky bits on the track around Halfway shelter which is nice looking hut and we were tempted to say there as it was still raining.  We carried on and when we were nearly at Hope Kiwi lodge we had to cross the St Jacob River. 

Then we found a four wheel drive track heading up a hill and started to follow this until we realised it was going to the St Jacob hut instead and when we came back we saw on the back of the sign the way to go to the Hope Kiwi hut.  When we arrived at the hut we were delighted to find not only a great hut but a purpose built horse paddock.

29^th October

Hope Kiwi Lodge to The Lakes station cattle yards near the Hurninui  hut(15.0km)

We left the hut reluctantly at 8am and headed out across the open valley for a while, following old wheel marks in the grass then when we were at the end of the valley we crossed a few boggy bits to find the bush track again.  We are not sure where the old wheel marks came from or went to.  The bush track was narrow and tricky in a few places with some steep rocky sections and some trees across the track which we had to find our way around.  We climbed up and over the Kiwi saddle and could now see Lake Sumner though the trees.  There was a steep track with high sides and Maddy’s boxes caught on these. 

Once we were out of the bush track we were at the end of Lake Sumner and we carried out up the Hurunui River to find a suitable place to cross as we had been told not to cross close to the lake and to go up past the cattle yards before crossing.  It had rained most of the day and was very windy. We could see the Hurunui hut and the swing bridge over the river and we decided to camp out in the tents by the cattle yards as there was a paddock for the horses.  We quickly put up the tents and had an early tea before the rain really set in for the night.

30^th October

The Lakes Station cattle yards to Lake Taylor (19.3km)

It was a cold night and we awoke to frost and fresh snow on the surrounding hills.  We packed up and pulled down our frozen tents and saddled up and headed towards the swing bridge and found a suitable place to cross the Hurunui River, we then picked up a four wheel drove track and followed this.  Lake Sumner was so calm and mirror like we had to stop often and take photos.  We then left this and came to Lock Katrine.

 This was lovely and there were Kohiowis flowering along the edge of the lock.    We carried on and came to Lake Taylor this was so mirror calm and we took lots more photos.  We arrived at the camping ground at the head of Lake Taylor and pitched our tents.

Two days off for the horses

WEEK TWO

17^th October
Woodstock to Tapawera (21.6km)
I left Woodstock and travelled south towards Tapawera, the road was wider today and there was not much traffic early in the day which was great.  We passed lots of hop vines growing and Stanley Brook Hill.  I walked Chief down this hill and noticed he has nearly worn his front shoes across the toe and the toe cleats had worn off.  We called in at the Café for coffee in Tapawera and then stayed in the
Settle Camping ground.  

I tethered the horses next to my cabin and there was a horse in the paddock next to us which was calling out and only later that night I found out it was a stallion.

I reshod Chiefs front shoes and think his hind shoes will last another day or so.

18^th October
Rest day for the horses

A very busy week.

19^th October
Tapawera to Goldent Downs Forrest (32.68km)

I left Tapawera headed on down south.  We called in for coffee at Kikiwa to find out they did not open until 10 but their coffee machine was on so they made me a coffee to go.  We carried on and came to a lovely back road called Valley road and this had great grass roadsides and so peaceful with hardly any cars.  When we left this we were back on the main road and went up Kerr Hill road.  There were lots of

logging trucks on this road and it was very busy.  I camped out in the Golden Downs forest for the night and tethered the horses.


20^th October
Golden Downs Forest to St Aurand (12.6km)
This was a day on busy roads and the traffic seemed to get busier and the truck faster with even more logging trucks going passed.  We were going to go to Top

House to stay but as I left the road to go up there I was talking with a lady who lived on the road and she told me that they had recently closed which saved me a trip up there.

21^st October
Rest day for the horses


22^nd October
St Aurnad to Rainbow trail horse paddock (36.5km)
I left St Aurnad and headed down the busy road towards the Rainbow trail.  I called in at the station and let them know I was there checked about the locked gates which are on the road.  A little further down the road I met two army guys and they said to call in at Dip Flat for a cup of tea.  They went passed again a few hours later and said to call for lunch and I said it would be a late lunch by the time I got there.  I eventually arrived and rode in passed the checkpoint and stockades and left the horses under a tree.  I knew they would not get passed the checkpoint as there was lots of army people doing various activities.  Some army people kept an eye on the horses while I had my lunch and a cup of tea and a chat with a few of the people there.  I gave one of them a ride a little way along the road on Chief as I left.

 We carried on and one of Chief’s hind shoes become loose so we stopped and reshod this foot in the shade of some trees as it was very hot. We camped out for the night next to the homestead as this has a lovely horse paddock and I pitched my tent.  The sandflies were bad and Maddy was so annoyed with kicking them that she kicked her belly straps on her cover and ripped it so I had to sew this up and cut the belly straps off her cover.


23rd October
Rainbow road horse paddock to St James turn off by Lake Tennyson(40.8km)
It rained in the early morning and I packed up the tent and saddled the horses in the rain.  The sandflies were bad and annoyed the horses all night and as I saddled them so they were happy to get moving.  We followed along the Wairau River for most of the day and this came to a gorge and an impassable locked gate called Hells gate.  Appropriately named and this was very solid with solid rock on the top side and very step bank on the river side.  The station manager had said to me” I hope your horses can swim” when I left and now I knew why.   When I asked him about the locked gates he said horses should be able to get round them so I went back down the road and down a steep bank into the river and crossed this twice to get round this gate. 

We continued on along the road and up and over Island Pass were we left the Wairau River behind and started to follow the Clarence River.  Once we were passed the turn off to Lake Tennyson we looked for somewhere to camp.  I tried to get closer to the river to camp as there was some nice grass down there but it was too boggy where I tried so I stayed on the road until I found the St James turn off and the signs about all the horse tracks you can ride.   I thought this must be a good place to camp as it was horse friendly.

24^th October
St James turn off by Lake Tennyson to Hammer Springs (41.5km)
It was very cold all night and I was not surprised to find my tent and the ground frozen when I got up  It was really cold and I had to wear gloves as I saddled the horses and the packed up my frozen tent.  The poles would not come apart easily as they were still frozen. 

Once we left I walked for a long time to warm up my frozen toes and then the sun came over the hills and it all warmed up.  We rode past the only St James homestead and on up to Jacks Pass.  There is a bridle track down the other side into Hammer Springs and we took this, I was a bit worried at the top of this as it was only just wide enough for Maddys boxes and very steep and nowhere for her to turn around but she handled this well. She did bang them against a tree and caught her rope and a little later her bags started to fall off so we stopped on the steep hill and the stood still while I untied everything and tied it all up again.  The track widened out and become easier and I was greeted at the bottom of the hill with a lovely cold drink and paddock full of grass for the horses.

This was step one of my journey completed and I can’t believe I have made it this far.